Let me guess. You are hovering over a dermaplaning tool, finger on the "add to cart" button, and one thought keeps pulling you back: what if the hair grows back thicker? Or darker? Or worse, what if you end up with a five o'clock shadow?
It is the number one worry we hear, and it is a fair one. Nobody wants to fix one thing and start another. So let's clear it up properly, no fluff, no scare tactics. Here is exactly what happens to your hair after dermaplaning, why it can feel different, and how dermaplaning is not the same as taking a razor to your legs.
First, what dermaplaning actually removes
dermaplaning gently glides a fine blade across the skin to lift away dead skin cells and the soft, downy hair on your face. That downy hair has a name: vellus hair. It is the fine, fair, wispy stuff most of us call peach fuzz.
Vellus hair is not the same as terminal hair, which is the thicker, darker, more stubborn hair on your scalp, brows, underarms and bikini line. This distinction is the whole ballgame, because the myth about thicker regrowth comes from confusing the two. dermaplaning only removes peach fuzz. It does not touch the follicle, and the follicle is what decides how your hair grows.
Here's the tea: peach fuzz is completely normal, and around 40% of women deal with some unwanted facial hair, according to the British Journal of Dermatology. Removing it or keeping it is entirely your call. We are just here with the facts.]
Myth 1: Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?
No. Your hair grows back exactly as fine as it was before. The thickness, colour, growth rate and texture of your hair are all decided by the follicle beneath the skin, and a blade skimming the surface has no way of reaching it, let alone changing it.
So why does it sometimes feel a little different as it grows back? A few honest reasons:
Blunt ends. Your natural, uncut hair has a soft, tapered tip. When you cut a hair, you slice it flat, so the end is blunt. A blunt end feels coarser under your fingertips than a tapered one, even though the hair itself is identical. It feels thicker. It is not.
You are simply noticing it more. Once you have felt baby-smooth skin, you pay closer attention to it. Regrowth you would never normally clock suddenly feels obvious. That is your awareness changing, not your hair.
Contrast. Against freshly exfoliated, glowy skin, regrowth can look a touch more visible than it did before. Again, it is the backdrop that changed, not the hair.
Myth 2: Does dermaplaning make hair grow back darker?
Also no. dermaplaning cannot change the colour of your hair, for the same reason it cannot change the thickness: it never touches the follicle, and pigment is set at the follicle.
What people are usually reacting to is contrast, not colour. When you cut a pale, tapered vellus hair, you expose the part of the shaft closer to the root, which can look very slightly deeper in tone against bright, exfoliated skin.
Put it next to your smoother complexion and your eye reads it as darker. Under a microscope, nothing has changed. Your regrowth is the same fine, fair peach fuzz it always was.
Myth 3: Is dermaplaning the same as shaving your face?
This one is more of a half-truth, and it trips a lot of people up, so it is worth being clear.
Yes, both use a blade to remove hair at the surface, and neither changes how your hair grows back. In that sense, the "will it grow back thicker" answer is the same for both: it will not.
But dermaplaning is not just facial shaving. A dermaplaning tool holds the blade at an angle designed to exfoliate as it removes hair, so you are lifting away dull, dead skin cells at the same time.
That is why skin looks brighter and makeup sits better afterwards, and it is why people reach for dermaplaning before an event, not just any old morning. A standard body razor is built to cut hair and nothing else. dermaplaning is the glow step and the hair-removal step in one.
What the research actually says
You do not have to take our word for it. A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found dermaplaning did not affect hair density, thickness or length in the treated areas, and concluded it is a safe, effective way to exfoliate. Dermatologists writing for InStyle agree: any difference you notice in regrowth comes down to your natural hair cycle and the blunt-cut effect, not the treatment changing your hair. Even TODAY has run the same myth-bust for shaving.
How to get the smoothest, softest regrowth
If regrowth ever feels a bit prickly, technique is usually the fix. A few things that make a real difference:
Use glide. Dragging a blade over dry skin is where irritation and rough regrowth start. A few drops of our Dermaplaning Facial Oil gives the blade something to float over, so it lifts hair cleanly and leaves skin nourished rather than stripped.
Hold the blade at 45 degrees and use short, light strokes. Let the tool do the work. Pressing harder does not give you a closer result, it just risks nicks and redness.
Keep your blade clean. Sanitise it with isopropyl alcohol before and after each use. A clean blade removes the bacteria that leads to post-dermaplaning breakouts, and it keeps every pass gliding smoothly.
Do not overdo it. Dermaplaning every 2-4 weeks is the sweet spot for most skin. Any more often and you are not giving your skin barrier time to do its thing.
The tool in your hand matters
A clean, precise blade with proper control is what separates a smooth, glowy result from an irritated one. Skip the plastic and wheat-straw disposables: the blades are usually lower quality, harder to clean, and they head straight to landfill after a few uses.
The Make My Shave Metal Dermaplaner is weighted for control, has a finger divot so you are never guessing, and takes reusable, replaceable blades that are easy to sanitise. The handle is 100% plastic-free, which makes it one of the most eco-conscious dermaplaners you can buy in Australia. Pair it with the oil in our Dermaplaner + Facial Oil Kit and you have got the whole ritual sorted.
New to all this? Start with our step-by-step guide to dermaplaning at home.
The short version
Dermaplaning will not make your hair grow back thicker, darker or faster. It removes fine peach fuzz at the surface, never touches the follicle that decides how your hair grows, and any difference you notice is a blunt-cut edge against smoother skin, not a real change. Use glide, a clean blade and a light hand, keep it to every 2-4 weeks, and enjoy the glow.
Frequently asked questions
Does dermaplaning make facial hair grow back thicker?
No. dermaplaning removes fine vellus hair (peach fuzz) at the surface and does not touch the follicle, which is what determines thickness. Regrowth can feel slightly coarse because a cut hair has a blunt tip instead of a soft, tapered one, but the hair itself is unchanged.
Does dermaplaning make hair grow back darker?
No. dermaplaning cannot change your hair colour, because pigment is set in the follicle and the blade only works at the surface. Regrowth can look marginally darker by contrast against freshly exfoliated skin, but it is the same fine, fair peach fuzz as before.
Is dermaplaning the same as shaving your face?
Not quite. Both use a blade and neither changes how hair grows back. But a dermaplaning tool is designed to exfoliate as it removes hair, lifting away dead skin cells for a brighter, smoother finish, whereas a standard razor only cuts hair.
How often should you dermaplane at home?
Every 2-4 weeks suits most skin. This gives your skin barrier time to recover between sessions. Always patch test first and find the rhythm that works for your skin.
How do I stop regrowth feeling prickly?
Use a facial oil for glide so the blade lifts hair cleanly, hold the blade at a 45 degree angle with light, short strokes, and sanitise the blade with isopropyl alcohol before each use. A precise, clean blade makes regrowth feel softer.
What is the best dermaplaning tool in Australia?
Choose a weighted metal dermaplaner with reusable, replaceable blades and a finger divot for control, rather than a plastic or wheat-straw disposable. The Make My Shave Metal Dermaplaner has a 100% plastic-free handle and is designed for a smooth, controlled result at home.
Find out more about Australia's favourite Metal Dermaplaner here.