When Should You Not Dermaplane? A Complete Safety Guide
Here is something you do not often hear from the brand that sells Australia's favourite dermaplaner: sometimes you should put it down.
We believe in our beautiful tool, and as the founder of Make My Shave, I can confidently say that not only do I love mine, but I use it with confidence every 2-4 weeks.
But it's important to remember that dermaplaning is a blade on your skin, and there are days and skin situations where the kindest thing you can do is wait. Knowing when to skip a session can boost your confidence around your routine and is the difference between smooth, happy skin and an afternoon spent regretting it.
To help give you clear guidance around when and when not to dermaplane, here is exactly what you need to know, including how to do it safely once your skin is back on your side.
Firstly: dermaplaning is not for every skin, every day
Dermaplaning is when a fine blade glides across the skin to lift away dead skin cells and peach fuzz (aka vellus hair). On calm, healthy skin, the act of peach fuzz removal can leave your skin feeling soft, smooth and brighter-looking.
On the flip side, dermaplaning on skin that is broken, inflamed or already stressed, the same blade can spread bacteria, drag on tender areas and set you back.
Harvard Health answers the question: Is it safe to dermaplane my face? in a recent article. They share that when done correctly and with the right tool, dermaplaning is generally safe for most people. They also highlight that it's not for everyone, and skin that is currently irritated or breaking out is a reason to hold off. You can read their overview here: Is it safe to dermaplane my face? (Harvard Health).
Let's dive in:
When you should NOT dermaplane
1. Over active breakouts or inflamed acne
This is the big one. Running a blade over active, inflamed acne can nick already-sensitive skin, increase irritation and potentially make a breakout worse.
If you have the odd small, non-inflamed bump, you can carefully work around it. But over angry, active or cystic acne, the answer is simple: not today. Just wait until your skin has genuinely settled.
2. If you get cold sores, or have any active infection
If you are prone to cold sores, it is best to avoid dermaplaning during an active outbreak or when you feel one developing. The same caution applies to any active skin infection.
3. When rosacea, eczema or psoriasis is flaring
Skin that is already reactive does not need a mechanical exfoliant on top. During an active rosacea, eczema or psoriasis flare, dermaplaning tends to make redness and irritation worse, not better. The American Academy of Dermatology goes as far as to say that dry, sensitive or acne-prone skin is often better suited to a gentle chemical exfoliant than to mechanical exfoliation. Their guidance is here: How to safely exfoliate at home (American Academy of Dermatology).
If your condition is well managed and your skin is calm, dermaplaning may still suit you. That is a conversation to have with a skin professional who knows your skin, not a decision to make in a flare.
4. On sunburnt, windburnt or broken skin
Sunburn is already damaged skin. Dragging a blade across it removes protective skin and makes everything sting more. The same goes for any cut, graze, crack or patch of raw skin. Wait until the barrier has healed and the skin looks and feels normal again.
5. When your skin is already sensitised by strong actives
If you have been using retinol, a prescription retinoid, or exfoliating acids such as glycolic or salicylic acid, your skin may already be more sensitive. Adding dermaplaning on top can increase the risk of redness, peeling and irritation. Give strong actives a rest for a few days before dermaplaning, and do not restart them immediately afterwards.
6. Over raised moles, skin tags or anything you have not had checked
Always dermaplane around raised moles and skin tags, never over them. And if you have a spot, mole or patch of skin that is new, changing or you are simply unsure about, do not dermaplane it. Get it looked at by a professional first. Smooth skin is never worth ignoring something that deserves a proper check.
When to wait a little, not skip forever
Some situations are not a permanent no, just a not-right-now.
After a peel, laser or injectables. Give your skin time to recover before you dermaplane again. As a general rule, leave it at least a week or two after a chemical peel or resurfacing treatment, and follow the specific advice of whoever performed it.
Right before a big event. Dermaplaning before a wedding or a shoot is popular for good reason, but do it a day or two ahead, not the morning of, so any redness has time to settle and you know how your skin will react.
Too often. More is not better. dermaplaning every 2 to 4 weeks is plenty. Doing it more frequently does not give you extra glow, it just risks over-exfoliating and upsetting your barrier. Let your skin cell cycle do its thing between sessions.
If dermaplaning is not right for you, that is completely fine
We will never tell you that you have to dermaplane, or that you have to remove your peach fuzz at all. Keeping it or removing it is entirely your call. It's your skin and your rules.
How to dermaplane safely when your skin is happy
When your skin is calm and clear, dermaplaning is a genuinely easy, low-maintenance skincare step that comes with loads of benefits such as:
- Instant smoothness and glow: Clearing dead skin and fuzz reveals brighter, fresher skin straight away, with little to no downtime for most people. It's one of the few treatments where you see the result the moment you finish.
- Makeup sits better: Foundation and powder stop catching on peach fuzz along the jaw and cheeks, so makeup goes on smoother and looks more like skin than a layer on top.
- Skincare applies more smoothly: Removing surface build-up can leave the skin feeling smoother, which may help serums, oils and moisturisers spread more evenly across the skin.
- Softer-looking texture: Exfoliating evens out the surface, so light reflects better and dullness and fine lines look less obvious. It doesn't erase them, it just gives skin a smoother canvas.
- Quick, gentle and in your control: It's non-invasive, takes a few minutes at home, needs no chemicals, and suits most skin types when done on calm, clear skin.
Here's how to dermaplane safely at home:
Sanitise the blade first. Wipe it with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton pad and let it dry before it goes near your face. It takes seconds and it matters.
Start on clean, dry skin. No makeup, no SPF, no day's buildup sitting on the surface.
Optional step: use a little glide. A few drops of our skin-protecting Dermaplaning Facial Oil help the blade glide smoothly and make dermaplaning a more comfortable, skin-kind ritual. If you want the detail on why, we cover it in our guide to the best oils for dermaplaning.
Keep the angle right and the pressure light. Hold the skin taut, work in short, gentle strokes at roughly a 45-degree angle, and stay well away from the eye area. Never press or scrape.
Look after your skin afterwards. Keep aftercare simple with something hydrating like our Skin Restoring Hyaluronic Acid, hold off on strong actives, and wear SPF, because freshly exfoliated skin is more exposed to the sun.
Our full step-by-step is in the Complete Guide to Dermaplaning at Home. Make My Shave's at-home dermaplaning tool is reusable, 100% plastic-free with replaceable blades. It's gentle, loved across Australia and comes with 3 reusable blades: Discover more about Australia's favourite Dermaplaner.
Quick round up: When You Should NOT Dermaplane (And When to Wait)
Do not dermaplane over active breakouts, cold sores or infections, flaring rosacea, eczema or psoriasis, sunburnt or broken skin, skin that is already sensitised by strong actives, or raised moles and anything unchecked.
Wait a week or two after peels and resurfacing, do it a day ahead of big events, and keep to every 2 to 4 weeks. Only dermaplane when it feels right for you!
Skip when you need to, dermaplane when your skin is happy, and it will look after you right back.
Please note that none of the below is medical advice. If you have a skin condition or you are not sure, check with your GP or a dermatologist first.
Frequently Asked Questions About When Not to Dermaplane
Can you dermaplane with acne?
Not over active, inflamed or cystic acne. A blade can nick a spot and spread bacteria across your skin, making a breakout worse and risking scarring. Wait until your skin has settled. If you only have the odd small, non-inflamed bump, simply work carefully around it rather than over it.
Can you dermaplane if you have rosacea, eczema or psoriasis?
Not during a flare up. If your condition is well managed and your skin is calm, it may still suit you, but check with a skin professional who knows your skin first.
Can you dermaplane after using retinol?
Give strong actives like retinol, retinoids and glycolic or salicylic acid a few days off before you dermaplane, and do not go straight back to them the same day afterwards. If your skin is easily irritated, leave a little longer.
How often should you dermaplane?
For most people, dermaplaning every 2 to 4 weeks is plenty. Doing it more frequently can increase the risk of over-exfoliation and irritation, so give your skin time to recover between sessions.
Can you dermaplane over moles or skin tags?
Work around raised moles and skin tags, never over them. If you have any spot or patch that is new, changing or you are unsure about, do not dermaplane it and have it checked by a professional first.
